| Posted: 27 December 2006 at 8:44pm | IP Logged
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It's not a hard buggy to drive you just have to have a setup on it that works for your style. Saxtons stuff works no doubt...but you may have to make changes to make it work for you. Setup is 90% of your battle without question. You can drive pretty well by the sounds of it with your finish in truggys so you just need to get this thing tunned in for yourself.
Here is some of my setup right now take it one step at a time when you make changes so you can see what happens when you make the change.
I've made some changes to my setup...I had some little issues I wanted to get rid of like my rear end sliding out from under me every once in a while. I just wanted to make it over all more consistant and easier to drive so this is what I did.
Tires:
Crime Fighters M2 Premounted
Chassis:
TTR 4mm conversion extended long chassis
Diffs:
Losi wts 7k-7k-3k I went to 5k-7k-3k
Anit Roll bars:
No anit roll bar up front but I have the black one in the rear set just on the tips.
Shocks:
Front mounts lower arms outside and upper mounts upper inside.
Losi 70wt oils in both with preloads right now set to aggressive turning with a 5mm insert which works well for slick surfaces. When it's tacky and higher grip I add a 2 or 3mm insert usually to keep fro over steering in a corner which create a slight push.
I changed the front to this: lower mount outside upper mount top middle still 70wt and reds but with 6mm preload.
Rear mounts lower arms outside and upper mounts inside upper.
Losi 45wt oils in both with preloads 5+3mm. This is also set for aggressive rear rotation on a slick surface...when it's turning too much I take the 3mm out and use a 1mm or a 2mm in it's place.
I changed the rear to this: lower mount inside upper mount top inside still 45wt and reds but with 8mm preload.
Red springs on both fr+rr
Tow blocks:
Front tow blocks are the same with the FRO rear plate.
Rear tow blocks are set now with the front block at a 2 and the rear tow block a 1.5.
The rear tow blocks are now a RR0 up front and still the same RR1.5 in the back.
This mad a huge change in the rear ends stability...I have to push the rear end around with my hands to get it to break loose now. A very controlled set up.
Wheels base is as short as I can get it now.
Caster is set in the middle instead of back.
Camber links are still long up top on the outside but I moved the inside link to the upper inside position. This gave me a little more body roll to help in weight transfers into the corners.
Overall this has a very positive out come in handling. Everything is a lot more predicatable in reactions and more stable. It does have a slight high to mid speed push into turns but it very easy to correct with a slight tap on the brakes and then a little throttle to pull the front around the rest of the way in the turn. The only negative aspect of this set up so far is in the rear over bumps on power. I believe with the position change in the camber links it's allowing extra body roll and the rear to sway and spring a little bit on hard power over bumps. I may correct this later with more time on the setup if needed by moving the camber link down a little on the inside.
Right now I'm a happy camper with this setup. I was quick the way it was before but now I think this will make me more consistant in the end.
Here is a link to my living setup if you will on my site: http://stc007rc.com/MGTFORUM/index.php?topic=1047.0
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ACE HOBBY Forums : EB4-S3 -- General
Topic: EB4-S3
have had no luck with the racing . I baught a new st-1 and finished 6 overall at my fisrt national race . I need to know is the EB4-S3 a difficult car to drive . what am I doing wrong , do i need to go to another brand buggy for begginers . Please need help.
